Walking around Lorraine. Stop in Nancy?

Nancy, the historic capital of the Duchy of Lorraine, is now the capital of Mert-i-Moselle, the capital of Bishop of Lorraine, the place of the great historical battle in 1477 (the battle of Carl the Bold in Nancy, where he died right in front of the city, as the Lucerne chronicles tell us) , the city of "one square", as the envious people call it, and so on and so forth ...

Maybe you are familiar with the famous cycle of terrific engravings by Jacques Callot “The Horrors of War” - this is how the city of Nancy, or, then, Nantsig, survived all these horrors in the Thirty Years War. Jacques Callot did the drawings, as they say, "without delay", so these engravings give the impression of a very strong one.

In the 18th century, “within the framework of cultural exchange,” the duchy of Lorraine passed from the German House of Habsburg to the power of the French crown (and the Hapsburgs get it at full disposal to Tuscany). And further, the history of the city is inextricably linked with the romantic history of Louis the Fifteenth and Maria Leshchynska.

The king’s passionate and long-lasting love for Maria, the most beautiful lady in Europe, first for the bride and then for the wife, forces Louis to favor Father Maria, Stanislav (or Stanislas) of the First Leshchinsky, the former Polish king and the future Tests of France. Louis hands Stanislaus the Duchy of Lorraine and grants the titles of Herzog Nancy and Luneville.

Under Stanislav, Nancy flourishes. The Polish king possessed an amazing artistic and musical taste, intelligence and humor, even for that enlightened time, he was a great zest for life, a spectacular man, a diplomat, a strategist and a “strong business executive”. On the monument erected to him after his death, his deeds for the benefit of the duchy are listed, and the dedication briefly states: "To Stanislav Leshchinsky - grateful Lorraine."

He is reforming the tax burden, inviting famous architects and engineers, with him flourishing crafts, medicine, the arts and agriculture, especially the winemaking of Lorraine. Stanislav gives the city a truly metropolitan glitter and grace, during his reign Nancy seriously competes with Paris. The death of Stanislaus in 1766 was grief for Lorraine, because the duchy passed directly into royal jurisdiction, and the tax privileges ceased.

Nancy was one of the arenas of the French Revolution, and after its powerful upheavals began to slowly come not so much to decline, but to the state of a quiet provincial city of "regional importance". Franco-Prussian war shook him, and then the First World War. A significant event for the First World event took place in the sky of Nancy - a protracted many-hour air battle in the Battle of Gran Kuronne.

The last battle, which happened to survive the city, took place in 1944, ended with the victory of the Allies and went down in history as the Battle of Nancy.

The history of Nancy is the richest, but, of course, we briefly mentioned only more or less significant events - and now let's take a little walk around the city. He really deserves admiration.

Old City has treasures that are not often found in Europe - for example, examples of civilian Gothic architecture. Such is the Palais des Ducs de Lorraine, or the Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine.

We are accustomed to church gothic, but civil civilization is a rarity, a whole world outlook, and a home philosophy. Encrypted messages of the architect to descendants, complex symbolism of external decoration. Contemporaries understood the symbolism of colors, figures, rosettes, the number of spiers, the design of facades perfectly and could read everything that the architect wanted to say. Descendants have to refer to the code of interpretations "Symbols and emblems" or to the comments of professionals.

The late Gothic Basilica of Saint-Evre, the old Roman city of Nazium, the beautiful houses of Osmann style, the perfectly preserved specimens of the luxurious French modernist High School of Nancy - all this pales in comparison with the Place Stanislas (Plas Stanislas), the former Royal. Remember, we said that Nancy is a “city of one square,” or rather, an ensemble of three squares?

Emmanuel Eret de Corne, the royal architect, created in 1752-1755 a unique ensemble, which has now become a monument in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Plas Stanislas, Plas de la Carrière, Plas d Alliance are interconnected by a colonnade and a triumphal arch. The original decoration of Stanislav Square is the gilded cast of the workshop of Jean Lamour, the fountains of Barthelemy Gibal and the Episcopal Palace and the School of Healers (now the Opera House and the Museum of Fine Arts), built in the style of early classicism. The ensemble is a bit like Place de la Concorde in Paris.

What else is famous Nancy? Of course, its university. And especially its medical and law faculties. It is very and very difficult to enter the Henri Poincaré University Medical Faculty - the competition is big, the graduates find a job right away, they are literally in great demand - the faculty’s reputation in Europe is extremely high.

Psychologists and psychotherapists know, of course, the so-called New Psychiatric School of Nancy, founded by Emil Coue, a theorist and practitioner of healing by self hypnosis and self-hypnosis, who gained worldwide fame and loud fame.

Nancy is the birthplace of the Goncourt Prize and, in fact, the birthplace of its founder, Emile de Goncourt. As well as the birthplace of the artist Jean-Baptiste Isabey, the composer Joseph Charlot and many other famous sons and daughters of France.

And there is also an old park in Nancy with fountains and cast-iron arbors, where along the paths just so well-fed, impudent, beautiful peacocks, just dukes of some Lorraine walk. And they beg for chocolate - they turn out to be very fond of it. And no one pulls them by the tail. And they feed with chocolate sometimes. What can I say - the French ...

Watch the video: Barge Cruise between Nancy and Verdun in Lorraine, France (November 2019).


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